From Black Snail Patterns:
The Fan-Skirt or Umbrella Skirt became fashionable around 1890. The simple but versatile cut, features a narrow waistline, flaring out at the hem keeping the balance with the gigot sleeves, fashionable at that time.
Skirts were kept simple, to build a contrast with the rich decorated waists.
The hem was supported with an extra layer of buckram or other stiff fabrics, cut on the same shape like the hem, or a straight strip pleated into shape.
The skirt is fitted around the hips with darts and has a deep box pleat at the center back, hiding the placket. Pockets at the side seams can be made optional.
The skirt pattern is suitable as well for day dress as for trained evening dresses. Consider more yardage for a trained skirts and using striped fabrics – see cutting information.
Firmly woven and heavy fabrics optionally can be sewn as single layer. Flatline light and soft fabrics like taffeta or sateen at least with a medium weight cotton fabric.
To save time and money sticking lots of sheets together, the pattern of the back part comes shortened.
Many of my customers made shortened versions of this skirt for everyday wear.
The skirt can be worn with or without a corset.
Also suitable for steampunk costumes.
The pattern comes with detailed and illustrated sewing instructions in English and German. It is a multi size pattern, you can choose between US 8-18 (EU 34-44) and US 20-30 (EU 46-56). A seam allowance of 5/8" (1,5cm) is inculded in my patterns.